Cat5e
Network category
Structured Ethernet outlet category.
Available options
Choose an option to view the corresponding product.
At a glance
Cat5e
Structured Ethernet outlet category.
2 outlets
2-way faceplate
25 × 50 mm
Low Profile RJ45 module
IDC
8 positions
Spring-loaded
Protected RJ45 opening
Faceplate only
Backbox not included
Create a neat, permanent two-port network outlet for a home, office or commercial installation. The Cat5e RJ45 sockets terminate independently, giving each cable run its own wired connection while sharing one faceplate.
Add two wired network points without needing a second wall position.
Low-profile modules leave extra room for cable routing and termination, particularly where backbox depth is limited.
Rear IDC termination gives each outlet its own fixed connection to the installation cable.
In the box
The components supplied as part of this complete data outlet kit.
Dimensional data
Dimensional views generated from measured faceplate, module and backbox component data.
Front population follows the product BOM and measured component dimensions. Dashed details show the RJ45 opening and label window; label-window horizontal centring is schematic. Side profile shows the confirmed flush assembly relationship.
Technical data
Complete the installation
Compatible products and installation guidance for this data outlet kit.
Patching
Cat6 patch leads are suitable for this Cat5e outlet and can also be reused in Cat6 installations.
1m Black Cat6 U/UTP Copper Patch Lead
£1.35
2m Black Cat6 U/UTP Copper Patch Lead
£1.95
3m Black Cat6 U/UTP Copper Patch Lead
£2.45
Cabinet end
Complete the permanent cabling run with a matching-category patch panel at the rack or cabinet.
19" 1U 24 Port Cat5e Patch Panel
£24.47
10" 1U 12 Port Cat5e Patch Panel
£18.71
19" 2U 48 Port Cat5e Patch Panel
£35.99
Permanent link
Choose matching-category solid installation cable for the permanent link between this outlet and the patch panel.
Cat5e U/UTP LSZH Installation Cable – Violet – 305m
£99.99
Cat5e U/UTP LSZH Cca Installation Cable – Green – 305m
£124.99
Cat5e U/UTP PE External Installation Cable – Black – 305m
£106.99
Surface mounting
The exact surface backbox used by the corresponding complete outlet-kit variant.
Termination
This module uses Krone-style IDC termination on its 8-position rear termination block.
Reviews are shared across closely related product variants, so you can benefit from relevant experience across the range.
Works great
good value does what it should
No travelling to source material
"Comms2Go CAT6 Single Port Faceplate - Socket - RJ45 - Ethernet - Network - Face Plate Module (1 Port)" - perfect and for only £2 and change. Really happy, have bought 6 of them after I found cat5 behind blank plates in a new house. Gigabit speeds and they look pro
A good piece of kit. Although I wired it up, I didn’t end up using it as I thought it would act as a splitter, but obviously networking doesn’t work like that. It doesn’t say that in the description, but since it also doesn’t come with instructions, I presume that they assume you know what you’re doing. Still, I can’t fault the socket, it was just my understanding of what it did.
Brilliant
Bought for a DIY project at home, I already have the punch tool, this was a nice addition instead of a loose cable. Looks a lot smarter and neater. Since purchasing I have purchased more from this seller.
Everything you need and easy to connect up. Just get it if you need one.
Works perfectly, looks good, wiring is easy once you understand what the colours are actually telling you. I've attached a photo showing T-568B wiring for any noobs like myself. Basically you match the wires colours to the 'B' side of the wiring diagram in the middle. (Obviously the wires need trimming, and if you have a decent punchdown tool it'll trim the wires for you. My punchdown tool is not decent.)
Easy to work with and plenty of room for installing the wiring
Well made, easy to fit and clearly marked connections on the socket.
So far so good. Delivery arrived ahead of time. Have not whipped out the ol krone tool yet as it's been a long ol time since I did any networking so I've been off googling as there's no instructions whatsoever included (in the deliver or on this product page) So, the colour indicators are not exactly clear. At least they are not clear enough for you to avoid doubt so here's some info (hint to seller please include these on the product page to save yourself expanse/a few trees) OK the back shows cabling options for T568A & T568B. My understanding is : * It does not matter which standard you use if you are making a *new* network (B is more common) * It does matter which is used if you are expanding an existing network * One or two peeps have referred to T568A as "special circumstance", I've always wired B. A Friend who just started a commercial broadband installation job..having previously taught English??.. was trained to wire using the B standard Module Wiring [ pin : A (B) | A (B) : pin ] 2 : Green (Orange) | Brown : 8 1 : Green White (Orange White) | Brown White : 7 6 : Orange (Green) | Blue : 4 3 : Orange White (Green White) | Blue White : 5 This does not really help me with what I have planned as I'm sort of turning these into "the patch panel" and having no wall sockets (My equipment is all local (I just want to be able to configure/adjust which network stuff is on, on the fly). So, effectively I need to know what wiring standard my network cables use prior to chopping them up. If you plan to do something similar, see attached picture, to work out what standard your cables use, although I'd be surprised if they are not all B. The things I can't find using google (perhaps the supplier can comment on this review). 1) There's a thing sticking out of the RJ45 module, like a long T. Do I : A: Use this to cable tie the cable to? B: stick this over, or under, the cable (as some kind of "protector") and cable tie to the hoop at the top of the RJ45 plug itself?? ..so many options 2) The dust cover, which appears to have a cut out specifically for the cable, does it matter which way round it goes?? A: cut out being on the RJ45 Module side, cable passing through it, might suit answer A above B: cut out being on the long T side, cable passing through it, might suit answer B above C: the cable shaped cut out is a red herring (second picture attached shows a "similar" module and there ain't no way the cable is "bent back" Possibly I'm getting all het up over nothing as this is an exercise in strain relief (that may not be needed), but the OCD in me needs answers to sleep well ;) Extra info... 1) Network economisers. * Wiring Diagram included * Needs repeating at both ends * Are limited to 10/100 as this only uses 4 cores ... and gigabit uses all 8 cores * (unconfirmed) if used with gigabit devices they will detect the core restriction & switch to 10/100 mode Main Difference between 6 and 6A/7 * CAT 6 "may" handle 10gigabit * it "may" handle 10gigabit between 30 & 50m (gigabit max length is 100m) * cat 6A and above are designed for 10g at the full limit ...so for most peeps wiring up houses, allowing for 10gigabit to become a common standard, you're probably fine with CAT6 If you own a mansion that requires very long runs you're probably paying someone else to do this for ya so you just wasted your time ;)
Easy to connect using kroning tool or punch down tool well made includes back box as well if needed
OK
Look good
Very good quality with a more logical connection sequence than some I have used previously. Would buyagain
Solid, good stuff. I just can't believe I Duraplugged* the damn thing though! * The "Duraplug" is a UK power plug which, unlike all other UK power plugs, has an outer cowling through which the power cable passes. This means that if you are used to wiring standard power plugs where the cowling can be fitted at the end, you will usually end up wiring a Duraplug twice (or you simply cut the cowling once you realise your mistake). The term has since been generalised to other wiring situations in which you forget to pass the wire through something before spending the time and effort to do the wiring.
Great product highly recommended
Great product highly recommend
Nice well made socket.
I bought this quad connection box, some singles and a double from the same people. All arrived quickly, and seem very solid quality for the price. The prices were a fraction of anything else I could easily source and function very well. The network modules are separate from the faceplate, and clip in. I find this better than the all-in-one faceplates I had before, as it allowed me more leeway in wiring up individual modules one at a time. The connections are clearly marked with A and B colouring, with the layout designed to send two pairs left and two pairs right. Tie wrap and cover were also supplied if needed.
good product
Great Product
Good Quality product and outstanding value for money
Excellent price but not cheap quality. Would be happy to buy more if I needed them.
Just what I needed, at a very reasonable price. The construction quality is very good and everything fits together properly.
Great quality outlet, well designed and easy to terminate connections. The colour guide is very clear and worked first time with solid connections being made. For this price I cant imagine a better socket and would not spend any more. These are perfect and will buy again for sure.
Well made, arrived early.
Excellent would recommend to anyone
Great Product and Great Service.
Does the job perfectly. Quality looks fine, can't see any problems.
Good product.
Strong solid product!!
Strong Product and no problems installing
Pleased
easy to fit and wire up just make sure u have the inserter
Needed a complete re wiring to work!!
OK
Does what it says on the tin.
What can I say, it does what it should.
Perfect for a busy point
Excellent price. Had one faulty module which the seller replaced immediately
Nice, simple wall-mounted boxes. These are three-way but looks as if one might be able to remove the spacers between the sockets and later add a fourth socket (I have not explored that option). I've used these in conjunction with a reel of solid core copper cable. To terminate the cables I used this "Krone tool", also bought from Amazon. With the tool, wiring is simple with the colour layouts clearly displayed on the back of the socket units. Note, there are two wiring plans (A and B). I understand one can use either but it is important to be consistent and use the same layout at both ends.
Looks good and it was cheap great
Complete and good quality, not much else to say other than they work perfectly.
Good value, "does what it says on the tin." ;-)
This is exactly what you need when creating your own home network. The faceplate fits nicely onto any standard single back box and the keystone jack (to connect to the cat6 cable) is removable, so can be swapped if it ever needs to be updated. Screws were included in the package, along with instructions. All you need is your own ethernet cable and a krone tool to go with this and you're good to go - no more need to depend on wireless networks.
Taught my 14 year old how to wire up this RJ45 socket. It came with the connectors, just had to buy a cheap wire push tool. Worked first time. No problems.
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Helpful information gathered across closely related product variants.
Browse Network Outlet Kits helpYes. Use a Krone-compatible punchdown tool. That is what the IDC contacts are made for.
Trying to push the wires in with a screwdriver or another improvised tool is just making the job harder.
It is a deliberate cable-tie anchoring point.
It is not packaging, a moulding sprue or an errant piece of plastic waiting to be snapped off. The module has two possible cable-restraint points, and this projecting strip is the one used when that route gives the incoming cable the more natural approach to the IDC.
No. Leave it there. It is one of the two intended cable-tie points, not waste plastic from manufacture.
They let the incoming cable approach the termination in two different ways. There is a moulded loop at the rear and a projecting strip at the top, so the cable can be restrained according to whether the installation calls for it to leave broadly parallel with the module face or turn through roughly 90 degrees.
It is a small piece of flexibility which becomes rather valuable in a cramped backbox, where forcing every cable to adopt the same route would be an unnecessary contrivance.
Snug enough to stop the cable jacket moving around, not so tight that you crush or visibly deform the cable. It is restraint, not a hose clamp.
Either T568A or T568B is suitable. These modules are marked for both.
What matters is that each individual cable run uses the same scheme at both ends; otherwise a perfectly tidy-looking outlet can hide a surprisingly awkward wiring fault.
Yes. Use a Krone-compatible punchdown tool. That is what the IDC contacts are made for.
Trying to push the wires in with a screwdriver or another improvised tool is just making the job harder.
It is a deliberate cable-tie anchoring point.
It is not packaging, a moulding sprue or an errant piece of plastic waiting to be snapped off. The module has two possible cable-restraint points, and this projecting strip is the one used when that route gives the incoming cable the more natural approach to the IDC.
No. Leave it there. It is one of the two intended cable-tie points, not waste plastic from manufacture.
They let the incoming cable approach the termination in two different ways. There is a moulded loop at the rear and a projecting strip at the top, so the cable can be restrained according to whether the installation calls for it to leave broadly parallel with the module face or turn through roughly 90 degrees.
It is a small piece of flexibility which becomes rather valuable in a cramped backbox, where forcing every cable to adopt the same route would be an unnecessary contrivance.
Snug enough to stop the cable jacket moving around, not so tight that you crush or visibly deform the cable. It is restraint, not a hose clamp.
Either T568A or T568B is suitable. These modules are marked for both.
What matters is that each individual cable run uses the same scheme at both ends; otherwise a perfectly tidy-looking outlet can hide a surprisingly awkward wiring fault.
It clips over the terminated IDC area after the conductors have been seated and trimmed. It helps protect and contain the finished termination.
The cable tie provides the cable restraint; the cover should not be treated as a substitute for that.
It may still make an electrical connection, but I would not leave it that way.
The cable tie is supplied so normal movement or pulling on the installed cable is taken by the jacket restraint rather than by the individual IDC terminations.
Fit it after the conductors have been punched down and the surplus tails trimmed. Make sure the cable leaves through the intended opening and no conductor is trapped before snapping the cover into place.
Use a Krone-compatible impact tool. Put the conductor in the correct colour position, punch it down and let the tool seat and trim it. Keep it simple.
No. The termination tool is separate. Use a Krone-compatible punchdown tool rather than trying to seat the conductors with a screwdriver or another improvised tool.
The installation cable terminates directly onto the IDC contacts at the rear of the RJ45 module. You lay the individual conductors into the colour-coded positions and punch them down; there is no RJ45 plug on that end.
The first attempt can look like a small nest of coloured conductors, but the markings make much more sense once the pairs are actually in front of you.
Yes. The rear IDC labelling shows both T568A and T568B colour codes.
For a normal straight-through Ethernet run, yes. If this end is terminated as T568B, use T568B at the far end as well; likewise for T568A.
Different runs can use different schemes, although a building full of mixed A and B terminations can become a small labyrinth to document for no real benefit.
Yes. The IDC contacts accept 22–26AWG conductors, and solid installation cable is supported.
Yes. Stranded conductors are also supported, provided they are within the specified 22–26AWG range.
The supported conductor range is 22–26AWG, solid or stranded.
The original installation instructions suggest stripping approximately 30mm of outer jacket to give enough working length to dress the four pairs into the IDC. That is a preparation length, not a target for leaving 30mm of loose conductors behind the finished module.
Bring the cable jacket as close to the termination area as the routing allows, keep the pair twists intact until close to their IDC positions, and let the punchdown tool trim the surplus conductor.
Yes. Keep the pair twists intact as close to the IDC termination as practical. Excessive untwist can reduce the performance margin of the finished link.
Yes. The IDC contacts are rated for 199 retermination cycles, so correcting a termination is well within the module specification.
Yes. One cable tie is supplied and there are two restraint points on the module: a moulded loop at the rear and the projecting plastic strip at the top.
Choose the one that suits the cable route, then tie around the outer cable jacket so normal movement is not transferred directly to the individual IDC terminations.
Yes. Follow the colour code, use the correct punchdown tool and test the run afterwards. Take your time with the first one; the rest are the same job repeated.
Yes. The two restraint points are there partly for that reason. One arrangement suits a cable continuing roughly parallel with the module face, while the other allows a route at about 90 degrees.
Choose the one that lets the cable sit naturally in the available backbox space rather than coercing it into an unnecessarily sharp turn.
Yes. Each port normally has its own run back to the central network point — perhaps a patch panel, switch or router depending on the installation.
It uses more individual cables, certainly, but it also avoids turning the wiring into a labyrinth of shared branches that becomes unpleasant to test later.
No. The 7.41mm figure is the measured diameter of the cable cut-out in the rear cover; it is not a published maximum cable-OD specification.
The verified conductor range is 22–26AWG, solid or stranded. The complete cable and cover still need to fit together without being forced.
The copper conductors may be physically terminable if they are within the supported 22–26AWG range, but the module itself is unshielded and provides no termination or bonding point for the cable screen.
So it should not be used where you intend to maintain a properly shielded channel from end to end. In that case, use connecting hardware designed to continue the screen rather than leaving the shielding to expire quietly behind the faceplate.
Yes. Each RJ45 socket is normally the end of its own four-pair cable run.
A 4-way plate therefore represents four separate network runs, not one incoming cable somehow dividing itself behind the faceplate.
No. Give each socket its own cable run. Splitting one Ethernet cable between several outlets is not the normal way to install this and usually causes more problems than it solves.
No. Do not daisy-chain them like old telephone sockets. Run each data outlet back separately.
Yes. If running the cable straight to a switch suits the job, do that. A patch panel is useful for organisation, not compulsory.
Yes. That is the conventional arrangement: the room outlets terminate one end of the permanent cabling, the other ends land on a rack patch panel, and short patch leads connect the required runs to the switch.
It keeps the building cables out of the day-to-day thicket of equipment changes at the front of the rack.
Yes. The cable can run directly from the outlet to a suitable router LAN port; a patch panel is not electrically required.
Once the number of runs starts growing, though, gathering them onto a panel usually makes the network considerably easier to identify and alter.
Yes, once the other end of the cable is connected to your network. The wall socket is passive. Wiring it in does not make the connection active by itself.
No. The outlet is simply the room-end connection to a cable run. Somewhere at the other end that run still has to meet an active network port — normally a switch or router, sometimes through a patch panel first.
Without that connection, the socket is just a very tidy dead end in the wall.
No. Both the Cat5e and Cat6 versions are unshielded modules.
We do not currently publish a verified product-specific PoE or remote-powering rating for these modules.
The Cat5e or Cat6 marking by itself is not enough for us to invent one.
If a particular PoE class, especially higher-power 802.3bt operation, is a firm design requirement, use connecting hardware with an explicit remote-powering rating for that application.
Yes. Cat5e supports Gigabit Ethernet when the complete channel is correctly installed.
The result depends on the cable, terminations and patch leads together rather than the wall module operating in splendid isolation.
No. PoE does not inherently require a shielded Ethernet outlet; power is delivered over the copper pairs used by the structured cabling. Shielding and remote powering are separate design questions.
Whether this particular module carries a published PoE rating is another matter, and we do not currently have one to claim.
The supplier documentation states TIA/EIA-568-B and ISO 11801.
We preserve that published claim rather than silently promoting the module to a later TIA revision or adding a PoE-specific compliance claim that has not been verified.
Yes. A Cat6 patch lead will work normally with a Cat5e outlet.
It does not promote the rest of the run to Cat6, but there is no compatibility problem in using the higher-category lead.
It will work, but the Cat5e module remains the limiting component.
The Cat6 cable cannot lend its category to the socket simply by being connected to it; the completed link is judged as a chain, and the least capable link sets the ceiling.
There is no inherent problem with mixing Cat5e and Cat6 parts, but it can become a thicket of labels if nobody keeps track of what the completed run really is.
The lowest-category component sets the channel limit, so consistency is usually the cleaner approach when you are starting from scratch.
The lowest-category component sets the claimed category of the completed link.
Cat6 cable, a Cat5e module and Cat6 patch leads do not average themselves into something in between; the Cat5e component remains the limiting part.
Yes. Standard RJ45-compatible Cat7 or Cat8 patch leads will physically mate with these 8P8C RJ45 sockets.
The outlet itself remains Cat5e or Cat6 according to the fitted module.
Yes. Older 10/100Mbps Ethernet equipment is backward compatible with these outlets.
The connected devices negotiate a speed they both support, so an older printer or television does not require a different wall module simply because it runs at 100Mbps.
For conventional balanced-copper Ethernet cabling, the permanent installed link is normally up to 90 metres. The complete channel, including patch and equipment leads, is normally up to 100 metres.
No. The socket does not create PoE. Power has to come from a PoE switch, injector or other proper power-sourcing equipment.
Yes. The RJ45 insert can be unclipped and fitted into another compatible 25 × 50mm Euro-module plate.
The format is designed for this kind of mixing and matching, although with an unusual third-party plate it is still sensible to check the fit before planning an entire wall of them.
Push the RJ45 plug against the shutter and lift upwards. The shutter moves out of the way and the plug can then be inserted normally.
FP1 provides one 25 × 50mm module position. FP2 has a continuous 50 × 50mm opening, so it can take two 25 × 50mm modules or a compatible 50 × 50mm module. FP4 has a continuous 100 × 50mm opening for four 25 × 50mm positions, two 50 × 50mm modules or other compatible Euro-module arrangements.
12.5 × 50mm blanks and spacers can also be used where required.
Yes, provided they use the compatible Euro-module format. The faceplates are not restricted to DCD RJ45 inserts.
Euro compatibility describes the mechanical format, though, so the electrical or signal suitability of whatever you fit remains a property of that module rather than the plate.
Yes. Compatible 12.5 × 50mm blanks and spacers can be used to fill part of the modular opening.
They are also how the 4-position plate can be arranged neatly around three 25 × 50mm modules.
No. FP2 has one continuous 50 × 50mm modular opening and FP4 has one continuous 100 × 50mm opening.
The 25 × 50mm positions shown in the specification describe their normal module capacity rather than separate holes moulded into the faceplate.
No meaningful physical difference is apparent between the two versions: the format, body, shutter, IDC layout, cover and cable-management arrangement are the same.
Their distinction is the network category and corresponding performance specification. That is why the category marking matters; attempting to identify one by silhouette would be a fairly futile exercise.
Yes. Fit the module into the modular opening from the front until it clips into place.
The DCD RJ45 modules are released from the rear, so remove the faceplate from the wall before unclipping one for replacement.
Yes. The RJ45 inserts use the standard 25 × 50mm Euro-module format.
It keeps the socket aperture closed while the outlet is unused, reducing the direct path for dust and debris into the connector.
It is a useful little door, not an environmental seal; the module should not be mistaken for a waterproof or dustproof connector because the shutter happens to close behind it.
Use the user-defined marking area behind the hinged transparent label holder. Open the holder, fit your identifier and close it again so the marking remains visible and protected.
Yes in FP2 or FP4. FP2 has a 50mm-wide continuous opening and FP4 has a 100mm-wide opening. FP1 only has space for a single 25 × 50mm module.
The measured label window is approximately 21mm wide by 10mm high.
The published specification gives phosphor-bronze RJ45 contacts with 50 microinches of gold plating over nickel.
Gold is used at the mating surface because it gives a stable, corrosion-resistant electrical contact over repeated plug insertions.
The plating is one small part of making a connector dependable; it should not be treated as a talisman which determines the network category by itself.
The published mechanical durability is 750 RJ45 insertion and withdrawal cycles.
Yes. Each RJ45 module clips into the faceplate independently.
With the DCD modules, remove the faceplate from the wall first, then unclip the required module by hand from the rear of the assembly. Some other Euro modules may provide front-release mechanisms, but the DCD RJ45 modules are intended to be released from behind.
Yes. Remove the faceplate from the wall, unclip the damaged module from the rear and replace that module only. The neighbouring modules and the faceplate do not need to be replaced simply because one socket has failed.
Yes. If you do not need a position, blank it off. Leaving an open hole achieves nothing and makes the finished plate look unfinished.
Yes, provided the other insert uses the compatible Euro-module format.
An RJ45 module can sit beside blanks or other suitable Euro modules, which is one of the useful peculiarities of the system: the faceplate can be assembled for the room rather than every aperture having to do the same job.
The 1- and 2-way kits use a single-gang faceplate. The 3- and 4-way kits use a double-gang faceplate.
The module is approximately 25mm wide by 50mm high by 21.5mm deep overall. The bare module body is approximately 20mm deep.
It means the termination body projects only a little over 20mm behind the face, which is useful where backbox depth is limited.
It does not abolish the need for space behind the module altogether: the cover, incoming cable and the cable's bend still have to live somewhere.
Low profile is assistance, not a licence to compress the installation into an impossibly shallow box.
Yes. FP1 and FP2 are standard single-gang size with 60.3mm fixing centres. FP4 is double-gang with 120.6mm fixing centres.
They can be used with compatible UK flush or surface backboxes.
The supplied surface-box configurations use a 21mm single-gang backbox for the 1- and 2-way kits, and a 32mm double-gang backbox for the 3- and 4-way kits.
No. The faceplate itself can be mounted either way up. Orient the modules as required for the finished outlet.
Yes. Two standard M3.5 faceplate screws are supplied.
Yes. The 1- and 2-way faceplates use standard single-gang fixing centres of approximately 60.3mm; the 3- and 4-way versions use the corresponding double-gang format.
The backbox still needs enough depth for the module and cable.
Yes. If there is already a suitable flush box in the wall, use the no-backbox kit on it. Buying another surface box would just leave you with a part you do not need.
Yes. A deeper compatible backbox is perfectly acceptable and often makes cable dressing rather more civilised, particularly with stiff installation cable.
There is no benefit in squeezing a nest of conductors into the shallowest possible box when the wall gives you more room.
Give the cable enough depth to curve naturally into the module. Do not force it through a sharp bend just to make a shallow box fit. If it is tight, use a deeper box.
It can be installed in the same general area, but data and mains wiring still have to follow the applicable segregation requirements.
Two accessories fitting neatly beside one another does not make the wiring behind them interchangeable; if both systems share a route or enclosure, keep the required separation or barrier rather than creating a mixed nest of cabling.
Yes, provided the insert is a mechanically compatible low-voltage Euro module.
The useful point of the system is that the plate does not particularly care whether the aperture contains RJ45, telephone, coax, HDMI or another suitable low-voltage service; the fitted module determines what that position actually does.
We specify these faceplates for compatible low-voltage Euro modules and do not make a mains-accessory suitability claim for them.
For mains wiring, use an accessory system specifically designed and approved for that application.
A mechanically compatible shielded Euro module can be fitted, but the ABS faceplate itself provides no screen bonding or earth path.
Any required shielding continuity must therefore be provided by the module and the rest of the cabling system.
It is the mounting frame for interchangeable Euro-style low-voltage modules. The faceplate provides the mechanical opening and wall fixing; the module you clip into it provides the actual network, telephone, AV or other function.
In other words, the plate is the stage rather than the performer.
Neither. The same faceplate can be used with Cat5e or Cat6 modules.
Network category belongs to the fitted module and the rest of the cabling system; changing the piece of white plastic around it cannot promote the network to a different category.
They are white ABS faceplates with a gloss finish. They are intended for indoor use.
No. The faceplate is only the mechanical mounting frame and does not sit in the copper signal or power path.
PoE capability depends on the fitted module, cabling and connected equipment rather than the faceplate surrounding the socket.
Yes. Use a Krone-compatible punchdown tool. That is what the IDC contacts are made for.
Trying to push the wires in with a screwdriver or another improvised tool is just making the job harder.
It is a deliberate cable-tie anchoring point.
It is not packaging, a moulding sprue or an errant piece of plastic waiting to be snapped off. The module has two possible cable-restraint points, and this projecting strip is the one used when that route gives the incoming cable the more natural approach to the IDC.
No. Leave it there. It is one of the two intended cable-tie points, not waste plastic from manufacture.
They let the incoming cable approach the termination in two different ways. There is a moulded loop at the rear and a projecting strip at the top, so the cable can be restrained according to whether the installation calls for it to leave broadly parallel with the module face or turn through roughly 90 degrees.
It is a small piece of flexibility which becomes rather valuable in a cramped backbox, where forcing every cable to adopt the same route would be an unnecessary contrivance.
Snug enough to stop the cable jacket moving around, not so tight that you crush or visibly deform the cable. It is restraint, not a hose clamp.
Either T568A or T568B is suitable. These modules are marked for both.
What matters is that each individual cable run uses the same scheme at both ends; otherwise a perfectly tidy-looking outlet can hide a surprisingly awkward wiring fault.
It clips over the terminated IDC area after the conductors have been seated and trimmed. It helps protect and contain the finished termination.
The cable tie provides the cable restraint; the cover should not be treated as a substitute for that.
It may still make an electrical connection, but I would not leave it that way.
The cable tie is supplied so normal movement or pulling on the installed cable is taken by the jacket restraint rather than by the individual IDC terminations.
Fit it after the conductors have been punched down and the surplus tails trimmed. Make sure the cable leaves through the intended opening and no conductor is trapped before snapping the cover into place.
Use a Krone-compatible impact tool. Put the conductor in the correct colour position, punch it down and let the tool seat and trim it. Keep it simple.
No. The termination tool is separate. Use a Krone-compatible punchdown tool rather than trying to seat the conductors with a screwdriver or another improvised tool.
The installation cable terminates directly onto the IDC contacts at the rear of the RJ45 module. You lay the individual conductors into the colour-coded positions and punch them down; there is no RJ45 plug on that end.
The first attempt can look like a small nest of coloured conductors, but the markings make much more sense once the pairs are actually in front of you.
Yes. The rear IDC labelling shows both T568A and T568B colour codes.
For a normal straight-through Ethernet run, yes. If this end is terminated as T568B, use T568B at the far end as well; likewise for T568A.
Different runs can use different schemes, although a building full of mixed A and B terminations can become a small labyrinth to document for no real benefit.
Yes. The IDC contacts accept 22–26AWG conductors, and solid installation cable is supported.
Yes. Stranded conductors are also supported, provided they are within the specified 22–26AWG range.
The supported conductor range is 22–26AWG, solid or stranded.
The original installation instructions suggest stripping approximately 30mm of outer jacket to give enough working length to dress the four pairs into the IDC. That is a preparation length, not a target for leaving 30mm of loose conductors behind the finished module.
Bring the cable jacket as close to the termination area as the routing allows, keep the pair twists intact until close to their IDC positions, and let the punchdown tool trim the surplus conductor.
Yes. Keep the pair twists intact as close to the IDC termination as practical. Excessive untwist can reduce the performance margin of the finished link.
Yes. The IDC contacts are rated for 199 retermination cycles, so correcting a termination is well within the module specification.
Yes. One cable tie is supplied and there are two restraint points on the module: a moulded loop at the rear and the projecting plastic strip at the top.
Choose the one that suits the cable route, then tie around the outer cable jacket so normal movement is not transferred directly to the individual IDC terminations.
Yes. Follow the colour code, use the correct punchdown tool and test the run afterwards. Take your time with the first one; the rest are the same job repeated.
Yes. The two restraint points are there partly for that reason. One arrangement suits a cable continuing roughly parallel with the module face, while the other allows a route at about 90 degrees.
Choose the one that lets the cable sit naturally in the available backbox space rather than coercing it into an unnecessarily sharp turn.
Yes. Each port normally has its own run back to the central network point — perhaps a patch panel, switch or router depending on the installation.
It uses more individual cables, certainly, but it also avoids turning the wiring into a labyrinth of shared branches that becomes unpleasant to test later.
No. The 7.41mm figure is the measured diameter of the cable cut-out in the rear cover; it is not a published maximum cable-OD specification.
The verified conductor range is 22–26AWG, solid or stranded. The complete cable and cover still need to fit together without being forced.
The copper conductors may be physically terminable if they are within the supported 22–26AWG range, but the module itself is unshielded and provides no termination or bonding point for the cable screen.
So it should not be used where you intend to maintain a properly shielded channel from end to end. In that case, use connecting hardware designed to continue the screen rather than leaving the shielding to expire quietly behind the faceplate.
Yes. Each RJ45 socket is normally the end of its own four-pair cable run.
A 4-way plate therefore represents four separate network runs, not one incoming cable somehow dividing itself behind the faceplate.
No. Give each socket its own cable run. Splitting one Ethernet cable between several outlets is not the normal way to install this and usually causes more problems than it solves.
No. Do not daisy-chain them like old telephone sockets. Run each data outlet back separately.
Yes. If running the cable straight to a switch suits the job, do that. A patch panel is useful for organisation, not compulsory.
Yes. That is the conventional arrangement: the room outlets terminate one end of the permanent cabling, the other ends land on a rack patch panel, and short patch leads connect the required runs to the switch.
It keeps the building cables out of the day-to-day thicket of equipment changes at the front of the rack.
Yes. The cable can run directly from the outlet to a suitable router LAN port; a patch panel is not electrically required.
Once the number of runs starts growing, though, gathering them onto a panel usually makes the network considerably easier to identify and alter.
Yes, once the other end of the cable is connected to your network. The wall socket is passive. Wiring it in does not make the connection active by itself.
No. The outlet is simply the room-end connection to a cable run. Somewhere at the other end that run still has to meet an active network port — normally a switch or router, sometimes through a patch panel first.
Without that connection, the socket is just a very tidy dead end in the wall.
No. Both the Cat5e and Cat6 versions are unshielded modules.
We do not currently publish a verified product-specific PoE or remote-powering rating for these modules.
The Cat5e or Cat6 marking by itself is not enough for us to invent one.
If a particular PoE class, especially higher-power 802.3bt operation, is a firm design requirement, use connecting hardware with an explicit remote-powering rating for that application.
Yes. Cat5e supports Gigabit Ethernet when the complete channel is correctly installed.
The result depends on the cable, terminations and patch leads together rather than the wall module operating in splendid isolation.
No. PoE does not inherently require a shielded Ethernet outlet; power is delivered over the copper pairs used by the structured cabling. Shielding and remote powering are separate design questions.
Whether this particular module carries a published PoE rating is another matter, and we do not currently have one to claim.
The supplier documentation states TIA/EIA-568-B and ISO 11801.
We preserve that published claim rather than silently promoting the module to a later TIA revision or adding a PoE-specific compliance claim that has not been verified.
Yes. A Cat6 patch lead will work normally with a Cat5e outlet.
It does not promote the rest of the run to Cat6, but there is no compatibility problem in using the higher-category lead.
It will work, but the Cat5e module remains the limiting component.
The Cat6 cable cannot lend its category to the socket simply by being connected to it; the completed link is judged as a chain, and the least capable link sets the ceiling.
There is no inherent problem with mixing Cat5e and Cat6 parts, but it can become a thicket of labels if nobody keeps track of what the completed run really is.
The lowest-category component sets the channel limit, so consistency is usually the cleaner approach when you are starting from scratch.
The lowest-category component sets the claimed category of the completed link.
Cat6 cable, a Cat5e module and Cat6 patch leads do not average themselves into something in between; the Cat5e component remains the limiting part.
Yes. Standard RJ45-compatible Cat7 or Cat8 patch leads will physically mate with these 8P8C RJ45 sockets.
The outlet itself remains Cat5e or Cat6 according to the fitted module.
Yes. Older 10/100Mbps Ethernet equipment is backward compatible with these outlets.
The connected devices negotiate a speed they both support, so an older printer or television does not require a different wall module simply because it runs at 100Mbps.
For conventional balanced-copper Ethernet cabling, the permanent installed link is normally up to 90 metres. The complete channel, including patch and equipment leads, is normally up to 100 metres.
No. The socket does not create PoE. Power has to come from a PoE switch, injector or other proper power-sourcing equipment.
Yes. The RJ45 insert can be unclipped and fitted into another compatible 25 × 50mm Euro-module plate.
The format is designed for this kind of mixing and matching, although with an unusual third-party plate it is still sensible to check the fit before planning an entire wall of them.
Push the RJ45 plug against the shutter and lift upwards. The shutter moves out of the way and the plug can then be inserted normally.
FP1 provides one 25 × 50mm module position. FP2 has a continuous 50 × 50mm opening, so it can take two 25 × 50mm modules or a compatible 50 × 50mm module. FP4 has a continuous 100 × 50mm opening for four 25 × 50mm positions, two 50 × 50mm modules or other compatible Euro-module arrangements.
12.5 × 50mm blanks and spacers can also be used where required.
Yes, provided they use the compatible Euro-module format. The faceplates are not restricted to DCD RJ45 inserts.
Euro compatibility describes the mechanical format, though, so the electrical or signal suitability of whatever you fit remains a property of that module rather than the plate.
Yes. Compatible 12.5 × 50mm blanks and spacers can be used to fill part of the modular opening.
They are also how the 4-position plate can be arranged neatly around three 25 × 50mm modules.
No. FP2 has one continuous 50 × 50mm modular opening and FP4 has one continuous 100 × 50mm opening.
The 25 × 50mm positions shown in the specification describe their normal module capacity rather than separate holes moulded into the faceplate.
No meaningful physical difference is apparent between the two versions: the format, body, shutter, IDC layout, cover and cable-management arrangement are the same.
Their distinction is the network category and corresponding performance specification. That is why the category marking matters; attempting to identify one by silhouette would be a fairly futile exercise.
Yes. Fit the module into the modular opening from the front until it clips into place.
The DCD RJ45 modules are released from the rear, so remove the faceplate from the wall before unclipping one for replacement.
Yes. The RJ45 inserts use the standard 25 × 50mm Euro-module format.
It keeps the socket aperture closed while the outlet is unused, reducing the direct path for dust and debris into the connector.
It is a useful little door, not an environmental seal; the module should not be mistaken for a waterproof or dustproof connector because the shutter happens to close behind it.
Use the user-defined marking area behind the hinged transparent label holder. Open the holder, fit your identifier and close it again so the marking remains visible and protected.
Yes in FP2 or FP4. FP2 has a 50mm-wide continuous opening and FP4 has a 100mm-wide opening. FP1 only has space for a single 25 × 50mm module.
The measured label window is approximately 21mm wide by 10mm high.
The published specification gives phosphor-bronze RJ45 contacts with 50 microinches of gold plating over nickel.
Gold is used at the mating surface because it gives a stable, corrosion-resistant electrical contact over repeated plug insertions.
The plating is one small part of making a connector dependable; it should not be treated as a talisman which determines the network category by itself.
The published mechanical durability is 750 RJ45 insertion and withdrawal cycles.
Yes. Each RJ45 module clips into the faceplate independently.
With the DCD modules, remove the faceplate from the wall first, then unclip the required module by hand from the rear of the assembly. Some other Euro modules may provide front-release mechanisms, but the DCD RJ45 modules are intended to be released from behind.
Yes. Remove the faceplate from the wall, unclip the damaged module from the rear and replace that module only. The neighbouring modules and the faceplate do not need to be replaced simply because one socket has failed.
Yes. If you do not need a position, blank it off. Leaving an open hole achieves nothing and makes the finished plate look unfinished.
Yes, provided the other insert uses the compatible Euro-module format.
An RJ45 module can sit beside blanks or other suitable Euro modules, which is one of the useful peculiarities of the system: the faceplate can be assembled for the room rather than every aperture having to do the same job.
The 1- and 2-way kits use a single-gang faceplate. The 3- and 4-way kits use a double-gang faceplate.
The module is approximately 25mm wide by 50mm high by 21.5mm deep overall. The bare module body is approximately 20mm deep.
It means the termination body projects only a little over 20mm behind the face, which is useful where backbox depth is limited.
It does not abolish the need for space behind the module altogether: the cover, incoming cable and the cable's bend still have to live somewhere.
Low profile is assistance, not a licence to compress the installation into an impossibly shallow box.
Yes. FP1 and FP2 are standard single-gang size with 60.3mm fixing centres. FP4 is double-gang with 120.6mm fixing centres.
They can be used with compatible UK flush or surface backboxes.
The supplied surface-box configurations use a 21mm single-gang backbox for the 1- and 2-way kits, and a 32mm double-gang backbox for the 3- and 4-way kits.
No. The faceplate itself can be mounted either way up. Orient the modules as required for the finished outlet.
Yes. Two standard M3.5 faceplate screws are supplied.
Yes. The 1- and 2-way faceplates use standard single-gang fixing centres of approximately 60.3mm; the 3- and 4-way versions use the corresponding double-gang format.
The backbox still needs enough depth for the module and cable.
Yes. If there is already a suitable flush box in the wall, use the no-backbox kit on it. Buying another surface box would just leave you with a part you do not need.
Yes. A deeper compatible backbox is perfectly acceptable and often makes cable dressing rather more civilised, particularly with stiff installation cable.
There is no benefit in squeezing a nest of conductors into the shallowest possible box when the wall gives you more room.
Give the cable enough depth to curve naturally into the module. Do not force it through a sharp bend just to make a shallow box fit. If it is tight, use a deeper box.
It can be installed in the same general area, but data and mains wiring still have to follow the applicable segregation requirements.
Two accessories fitting neatly beside one another does not make the wiring behind them interchangeable; if both systems share a route or enclosure, keep the required separation or barrier rather than creating a mixed nest of cabling.
It is the mounting frame for interchangeable Euro-style low-voltage modules. The faceplate provides the mechanical opening and wall fixing; the module you clip into it provides the actual network, telephone, AV or other function.
In other words, the plate is the stage rather than the performer.
Yes, provided the insert is a mechanically compatible low-voltage Euro module.
The useful point of the system is that the plate does not particularly care whether the aperture contains RJ45, telephone, coax, HDMI or another suitable low-voltage service; the fitted module determines what that position actually does.
Neither. The same faceplate can be used with Cat5e or Cat6 modules.
Network category belongs to the fitted module and the rest of the cabling system; changing the piece of white plastic around it cannot promote the network to a different category.
We specify these faceplates for compatible low-voltage Euro modules and do not make a mains-accessory suitability claim for them.
For mains wiring, use an accessory system specifically designed and approved for that application.
They are white ABS faceplates with a gloss finish. They are intended for indoor use.
A mechanically compatible shielded Euro module can be fitted, but the ABS faceplate itself provides no screen bonding or earth path.
Any required shielding continuity must therefore be provided by the module and the rest of the cabling system.
No. The faceplate is only the mechanical mounting frame and does not sit in the copper signal or power path.
PoE capability depends on the fitted module, cabling and connected equipment rather than the faceplate surrounding the socket.